Kurteti
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Hey folks
Up for grabs is a truly special watch from a superbly underrated brand.
I’ve had a few of these beauties in the past and what they offer at a second hand price point simply can’t be beat.
This model was created for the Monaco Yacht Show of 2019, the most prestigious of yacht shows.
42mm in diameter and cased in familiar UN styling featuring the same chronometer-certified movement as other Torpilleur models introduced in 2017, the novelty of this piece lies in the Grand Feu enamel dial and inscriptions relating to the yacht show.
As a side note for any mariner buffs, the Marine Torpilleur lineup derives its name from a torpedo boat that was a small, fast ship introduced in the late 19th-century used to transport and deploy torpedoes against battleships and UNs strong ties to the sea. Supplying over 50 navies their precision marine deck chronometers and the brand’s reputation for state-of-the-art technology (precursor of silicium escapements), its slimmer, less bulky profile, is how the model Marine Torpielleur derived its model name.
Back to the watch:
UN is one of the few manufactures to make its own dials after buying family run Donzé Cadrans in 2011, a company specializing in enamel dials, whose artisans are all trained in house.
Enamel dials retain their colour intensity as if freshly painted and the Grand Feu technique is one of the most difficult to master being executed entirely by hand, from start to finish with a high rejection rate involving a copper base being dusted with enamel, white and grey for the Marine Torpilleur Monaco, and fired at a temperature of approximately 800° C.
During this process, the enamel liquefies and bonds to the metal surface. Warping, cracking, blistering are all hazards to the process and is highly unpredictable with even the most trained enameler.
Once a flawless dial is secured, the indices/inscriptions are applied to the dial using dyes composed of enamel powder; back in the kiln it goes, however to ensure the new layer of enamel fuses to the same level as the surface of the dial, it is smoothed down and flattened by a piece of carbon and a master skill level is required to ensure no carbon markings remain on the enamel.
Given this involved process, the dial’s diameter has to be adjusted to fit the case. The two sub-dials have to be cut out from the blank enamel disc and chamfered by hand before the grey coloured enamel power reserve and small seconds discs with red and blue inscriptions can be tin-soldered to the white dial.
The sub-dial at 12 o’clock displays the power-reserve indicator (60 hours by the in house UN118 cal) vertically balanced by the larger small seconds dial at six with the date aperture. Both sub-dials feature red markings for the Bas/Haut indication on the power reserve and the numbers 09.19 and inscription Monaco Yacht Show in honour of the date of the 2019 MYS, with the dates 26-29 coloured in red, in reference to the dates of the Yacht show.
The movement is as involved as the dial featuring Geneva striping on the bridges, 4 anchors on the rotor, and UNs additional stringent accuracy testing to -2/+6s a day, referenced by the UN certified engraving on the bridge.
A screw down crown protects the water resistance down to 50m
This limited edition model ran €9500/$12,400 CAD at retail and is in amazing condition with the only signs of wear being to the clasp.
I’m asking a measly $4444 for what can only be described as a truly unique “one of” horological marvel, where no two watches will be exactly the same.
Up for grabs is a truly special watch from a superbly underrated brand.
I’ve had a few of these beauties in the past and what they offer at a second hand price point simply can’t be beat.
This model was created for the Monaco Yacht Show of 2019, the most prestigious of yacht shows.
42mm in diameter and cased in familiar UN styling featuring the same chronometer-certified movement as other Torpilleur models introduced in 2017, the novelty of this piece lies in the Grand Feu enamel dial and inscriptions relating to the yacht show.
As a side note for any mariner buffs, the Marine Torpilleur lineup derives its name from a torpedo boat that was a small, fast ship introduced in the late 19th-century used to transport and deploy torpedoes against battleships and UNs strong ties to the sea. Supplying over 50 navies their precision marine deck chronometers and the brand’s reputation for state-of-the-art technology (precursor of silicium escapements), its slimmer, less bulky profile, is how the model Marine Torpielleur derived its model name.
Back to the watch:
UN is one of the few manufactures to make its own dials after buying family run Donzé Cadrans in 2011, a company specializing in enamel dials, whose artisans are all trained in house.
Enamel dials retain their colour intensity as if freshly painted and the Grand Feu technique is one of the most difficult to master being executed entirely by hand, from start to finish with a high rejection rate involving a copper base being dusted with enamel, white and grey for the Marine Torpilleur Monaco, and fired at a temperature of approximately 800° C.
During this process, the enamel liquefies and bonds to the metal surface. Warping, cracking, blistering are all hazards to the process and is highly unpredictable with even the most trained enameler.
Once a flawless dial is secured, the indices/inscriptions are applied to the dial using dyes composed of enamel powder; back in the kiln it goes, however to ensure the new layer of enamel fuses to the same level as the surface of the dial, it is smoothed down and flattened by a piece of carbon and a master skill level is required to ensure no carbon markings remain on the enamel.
Given this involved process, the dial’s diameter has to be adjusted to fit the case. The two sub-dials have to be cut out from the blank enamel disc and chamfered by hand before the grey coloured enamel power reserve and small seconds discs with red and blue inscriptions can be tin-soldered to the white dial.
The sub-dial at 12 o’clock displays the power-reserve indicator (60 hours by the in house UN118 cal) vertically balanced by the larger small seconds dial at six with the date aperture. Both sub-dials feature red markings for the Bas/Haut indication on the power reserve and the numbers 09.19 and inscription Monaco Yacht Show in honour of the date of the 2019 MYS, with the dates 26-29 coloured in red, in reference to the dates of the Yacht show.
The movement is as involved as the dial featuring Geneva striping on the bridges, 4 anchors on the rotor, and UNs additional stringent accuracy testing to -2/+6s a day, referenced by the UN certified engraving on the bridge.
A screw down crown protects the water resistance down to 50m
This limited edition model ran €9500/$12,400 CAD at retail and is in amazing condition with the only signs of wear being to the clasp.
I’m asking a measly $4444 for what can only be described as a truly unique “one of” horological marvel, where no two watches will be exactly the same.
